The atlas
Every guide below is written by hand and built around the experiences we think are genuinely worth your time — the landmarks, the neighbourhoods, the meals, and the day trips that define a place.
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Bangkok
Bangkok's most dazzling complex, home to the Emerald Buddha and a maze of gilded halls and mirror-tiled spires. Go early to beat the heat and the crowds, and dress respectfully — shoulders and knees covered.
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Bangkok
A 46-metre gold-leafed Buddha, mother-of-pearl feet and all, plus the country's oldest massage school. Book a traditional Thai massage here afterwards — it's the birthplace of the practice.
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Bangkok
The Temple of Dawn is best at dusk, when the Khmer-style prang catches the low light and the river turns molten. Climb the steep central steps, then cross by ferry for a riverside drink facing back at it.
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